A John Burroughs’ Pepacton Trail

The Innkeeper's Register - Recreation

Exploring John Burroughs’ Pepacton

John Burroughs’ essay Pepacton, written in 1881, captures the vivid beauty and ecological significance of the Delaware River, weaving rich descriptions and reflections that continue to resonate with today’s readers. Throughout the essay, Burroughs highlights his keen observation skills, which bring to life the intricate dynamics of this vital waterway.  Burroughs leaves from Arkville, NY in a boat he constructed. He floats down what we today call the East Branch of the Delaware River. His journey extends all the way to Hancock, NY.

In Pepacton, Burroughs highlights the Delaware River’s importance as a corridor for migratory species. It is a linchpin for regional biodiversity. These themes echo in his broader body of work. He writes about the American shad, whose upriver journeys he describes with awe and detail: “Their silvery forms flash in the waters as they embark on their ancient pilgrimage.” This reflection not only celebrates the shad’s presence but underscores its role in the river’s interconnected ecosystem.

Burroughs’ essays often incorporate a deep awareness of seasonal changes, vividly captured in passages from Pepacton. He writes, “Spring adorns the riverbanks with hues of regeneration.” Life reawakens with green vitality. This illustrates both the visual beauty and ecological renewal occurring along the Delaware. The meticulous detail in his description serves as a call to appreciate these transformations and fosters a connection with nature’s cycles.

Another noteworthy aspect of Pepacton is Burroughs’ poetic portrayal of the river’s landscapes. He notes, “The river carves through stony sentinels, a testament to time’s gentle, persistent caress.” This paints a picture of the Delaware as both a serene and powerful force. Such language invites readers to engage with the river’s beauty and consider their role in its preservation.

“To honor the river is to respect our own role in the earth’s delicate web.” His advocacy for conservation, especially through essays like Pepacton, planted seeds for modern environmental efforts that prioritize ecological health and community well-being.

In experiencing the Delaware through Burroughs’ eyes, Pepacton offers a timeless invitation to explore and protect the river. Burroughs’ writings, like this essay, continue to inspire a sense of wonder and responsibility, urging readers to immerse themselves in the natural world he so cherished and to ensure its enduring presence for future generations.  The entire essay is available online.

The East Branch of the Delaware River at Long Flats, above Harvard, NY.
Long Flats

A Proposed John Burroughs’ Pepacton Trail

Roxbury, NY

  • A visit to the Headwaters of the East Branch of the Delaware River.  Situated north of town along Rt. 30, the headwaters form a small swampy grassy area as the road rises to a height of land just south of Great Gorge, NY.
  • A Visit to Woodchuck Lodge, the summer home of John Burroughs from 1910 to 1921.
  • A Drive by The Burrough’s Homestead, Burrough’s childhood home, which now operates as a B and B year round.

Margertville, NY

  • Locate where Dry Brook meets the East Branch just east of Margetville alongside of Rt. 30.  Having launched first on Dry Brook, Burrough’s entered the Pepacton at this junction.
  • Park on Main Street and walk to the Fair Street Bridge.  The backs of the buildings along Main Street were much the same when Burroughs floated downriver.

From Margertville, NY To Downsville, NY

  • Drive west on Rt. 28/30 to the spot Rt. 30 turns left to travel along the Pepacton Reservoir.   The reservoir was not constructed when Burroughs made his trip.  Instead, he floated along the original channel along farmsteads and past tiny hamlets, now buried by the waters supplying NYC.
  • Enjoy the many pullouts to view the reservoir, especially near the bridge that crosses to the south shoreline.

Downsville, NY

  • Get out and explore the village as Burrough’s did, seeking a few supplies from the general store.

Downsville, NY to East Branch, NY

  • This stretch of the river has multiple fishing access points to explore the solitude of the river Burroughs experienced. Long Flats, a few miles north of Harvard, is particularly beautiful.
  • In EastBranch is the confluence with the Beaverkill River and there are multiple places to enjoy the view including a bald eagle-viewing gazebo.

Hancock, NY

  • Visit the Bridge Street Spur Fishing Pier Park and Fireman’s Field, to commemorate the end of Burrough’s journey.
The confluence of the East Branch of the Delaware River and the Beaverkill.
The Confluence of the Beaverkill and the East Branch of the Delaware River.

Experiencing the River Through Burroughs’ Perspective

For those looking to explore the Delaware River, Burroughs’ perspective offers a unique lens. His appreciation for its serene beauty and complex ecosystems inspires tourists to engage with the river thoughtfully. Visitors can enjoy activities like hiking, kayaking, and birdwatching, discovering the very landscapes that Burroughs described with such passion. He was also quite adept at landing trout along his journey, so flyfishing the East Branch would be a natural fit to your journey.

These experiences not only honor Burroughs’ legacy but also promote a deeper understanding of the river’s enduring appeal. Visitors can immerse themselves in the natural wonders he cherished. This fosters an appreciation that mirrors Burroughs’ own. It ensures the Delaware River remains a cherished natural wonder for future generations.

Conclusion: The Timeless Appeal of Burroughs’ Delaware

The Enduring Relevance of Burroughs’ Observations

John Burroughs’ keen observations of the Delaware River remain surprisingly fresh today. His ability to weave intricate details about the river’s ecosystem into captivating narratives has left a lasting impact on nature writing. He left a lasting impact on nature writing. Burroughs saw the river as more than just a body of water; he recognized it as a living entity, whose rhythms and life cycles contribute to the broader environmental tapestry. His work underscores the importance of attentiveness. It highlights appreciation for the natural world. This approach helps many recognize the river’s invaluable contributions to biodiversity. It also brings attention to its role in ecological balance.

Burroughs’ writings beckon adventurous souls to explore the Delaware River. The river offers more than breathtaking views; it provides an opportunity to engage deeply with nature and rediscover moments of tranquility amidst the hustle of daily life. Whether through hiking along scenic trails, kayaking through serene waters, or simply pausing to listen to the birdsong, the Delaware invites introspection and wonderment. For those inspired by Burroughs, each visit to the river is a chance to connect with its timeless beauty and feel a part of its ever-evolving story.

Preserving the Delaware River is crucial for maintaining the ecological integrity Burroughs so eloquently championed. Conservation efforts today strive to protect the river’s diverse habitats, ensuring that future generations can enjoy its bounty. The river’s health is intrinsically linked to community well-being, as it provides clean water, supports agriculture, and offers recreational spaces. By cherishing and safeguarding the Delaware, we honor Burroughs’ legacy and serve as stewards of the environment, fostering a sustainable relationship with nature.

The reverence for the river that Burroughs instilled continues to flourish, encouraging us to tread lightly and nurture the earth’s wonder.


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Check out what people say about where to stay in Hancock, NY!

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Excellent190 reviews
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Jack Sugameli profile picture
Jack Sugameli
15 October 2026
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Been staying here for a few years when we come fishing. All recently updated and fantastic customer service.
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Stephanie Wren
11 September 2026
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Great customer service, nice clean room I would definitely recommend.
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Kenji Tamura
8 September 2026
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+1
My friend and I stayed here for a night during our motorcycle trip. This place is very close to the starting point of NE BDR, although we were not for BDR this time. The staff is very nice, and there was a good surprise for motorcycle riders. The room is surprisingly clean and blight! It looks typical motel from outside, but inside is very nice and clean. I will definitely stay here when we will try NE BDR. There is a Keurig coffee machine in the laundry room. There is a washer and a dryer. You need quarters to use them. There are a few restaurant in walkable distances.
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Annie Cook
7 September 2026
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Could not recommend this place enough!! We found it last minute when our original lodging fell through. Even though it was super late at night, Chloe got us into a room and was so kind! And Lynn the next morning was so helpful and accommodating!! We left our original motel because of bugs and it being dirty, and this place was so much better!! So clean and the location was much more convenient!
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Heather Anne
28 August 2026
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Stayed twice the rooms are amazing Chloebthe young woman at the desk was amazing super helpful and accommodating. However the older lady who works house keeping was rude for no reason. However will definitely stay there over and over again!!
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Hanna Benesch
21 August 2026
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Everything was perfect, the room was large, clean, and comfortable, we enjoyed our stay and would recommend this place.
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Albert Bellamy
12 August 2026
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Love this place! Comfy room, AC works great, everything is very clean, cute spot. I love the corn hole setup out front. Really wished we could have stayed longer - staff is SUPER friendly. We came to visit our son who is working nearby at French Woods. Edit: back for a second year and the place is still awesome! I am consistently amazed by how friendly the entire staff is. Keep up the good work!
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stasia todd
27 July 2026
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Five stars, five big shining beautiful stars. Chloe made my stay comfortable and it was a fair price.
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Aubrey Clay
3 July 2026
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Starting the NEBDR. This is a great place for a good nights rest to get the trip started. Very clean and ran professionally!
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Kari Jo
29 June 2026
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+0
Omg this hotel is adorable!!! So cute and clean! Super clean! And nice shower toiletries, the beds are so comfy, decor very nice and classy! we just needed a night stay and found this and we were obsessed! Love itn
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Eldric Venne
12 June 2026
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Great place to start your NEBDR adventure.
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Craig Poff
19 May 2026
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Clean rooms, friendly staff and great location!
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James profile picture
James
3 May 2026
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This hotel is very well maintained. It’s clean, updated and tastefully decorated. The staff are all beyond friendly. We have stayed here multiple times over the last few months while our homes been renovated and every times been great.
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Brian McMillin
1 May 2026
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I stay here when fishing. Rooms are clean and comfortable. The staff is always very friendly and helpful.
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Doug Heighington
29 April 2026
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Exceptionally clean, friendly and conveniently located just off the highway. We will certainly be staying here again when we pass through.